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How to Select the Perfect Dual Case Kit for Your Next Auto Project

Dual transfer case kits are how serious rock crawlers and off-road explorers get even more torque from their vehicles. They act as a reducer to add another set or two of low gears to what the main transfer case already produces so you have plenty of options. This guide looks at the factors you should consider when choosing a dual transfer case package so it gives the right amount of control for the terrain you want to tackle.

Crawl Ratio

Any transfer case installation or modification should be done with the crawl ratio in mind. Also known as the final drive ratio (FDR), this number reflects how much pull you have in the lowest possible gearing. Let’s say your goal is to have at least a 110 FDR for rock crawling, but your factory transmission and transfer case only produce a 40 FDR. That means your dual transfer case will need at least a 2.75:1 gear ratio to achieve the appropriate crawl ratio. Check the available gearing options to make sure the final combination meets your needs.

Matching the Spline

No matter what gear ratio you choose, the input shaft needs to match the gears. This lets the reduction box connect to the transmission and the main transfer case. For example, V8 Toyota trucks from the 1980s and 1990s generally have 21-spline transmissions while V6 trucks and four-cylinder turbos are 23 spline. Check your transmission to see what the factory input requires; if the dual case kit doesn’t match as-is, adapter couplers may be available.

What Is the Adapter Made of?

Your dual transfer case adapter is going to take a lot of abuse. Therefore, it needs to be constructed from high-quality materials. While full transfer cases are often made of cast iron, heavy-duty dual case kits are more likely to be crafted from aluminum. This is 20-30% lighter than cast iron while still being plenty strong for its purposes. With the adapter, you also don’t have to worry about internal part failures destroying it like you would an aluminum transfer case. Make sure it’s a high-grade aluminum like our 356-T6 heat-treated alloy.

Single or Twin Stick

Just like with regular transfer cases, the reduction box (aka crawler box) can have a single stick or twin stick shifter. A single-stick setup lets you switch between low- and high-range gears as you drive while the twin-stick configuration also lets you independently go between 2WD and 4WD. This ultimately comes down to personal preference; being able to switch drive engagement while moving has benefits, but some find the extra stick cumbersome and confusing.

Stock or Aftermarket Gears

In many doubler setups, you have a choice between keeping the OEM gears or adding lower aftermarket gears. Sometimes, you can combine the two. If you want to personalize the gearing, make sure your reduction housing will accept the desired gear set before purchasing. You don’t want to buy what you think is your dream combination only for them not to get along.

OEM Parts 101: What Are OEM Parts?

Anyone who has ever needed auto parts has heard or seen the term “OEM.” Understanding what this means is important for all vehicle owners — but especially for DIY mechanics and restorers. Our experts have put together this guide to OEM parts so that, whether you shop at Advance Adapters or through your local dealership, you know when OEM is the right choice.

OEM Parts Explained

OEM is short for “Original Equipment Manufacturer.” These parts are identical to what was on the vehicle when it left the factory. For newer vehicles, OEM components are made by the same company that designed and produced the original. In the case of older vehicles, other companies are sometimes contracted to make officially licensed parts using the OEM specifications and materials. An example of an OEM parts company is Mopar, which was created by the Chrysler Corporation solely to make authentic parts for their vehicles.

By purchasing OEM vehicle parts, you can expect the quality, fitment and performance to be the same as what you’re replacing. The parts are also more consistent, and they’re always backed by a warranty in case of failure. In other words, OEM is the “old reliable” of vehicle maintenance and repair. Occasionally, you can also get OEM performance upgrades. On the downside, OEM parts can be up to 60% more expensive, and availability may be limited for certain vehicles — especially if your vehicle is an older model or wasn’t as popular as other models.

OEM vs. Aftermarket Parts

You typically will have a choice between OEM and aftermarket parts for your project. Aftermarket car parts are made by independent manufacturers to replace the OEM parts. Some aftermarket parts look and operate like their OEM counterparts while others are designed to improve performance in some way. A few companies, like AC Delco, make both OEM and aftermarket parts. Manufacturers can make a huge range of aftermarket components or specialize in certain vehicles and types of parts.

There are a few advantages to buying aftermarket parts. Equivalent parts are often less expensive and have more variety, which is great for modding. These alternative components are easier to find, too. However, to the uninitiated, aftermarket parts can feel like a bit of a “Wild West.” While some parts are better quality than OEM, others are worse quality, and so-called universal parts might not be a great fit. Not all aftermarket parts have warranty coverage, either. This means doing your homework to make sure you’re buying a good part from someone reputable.

Which Parts Should I Buy?

The choice ultimately comes down to your preferences and project goals. Order OEM if you’re happy with how the original part performed and are willing to pay more for a sure thing. If you want customization and high-performance options, or the OEM component is no longer available, then go with aftermarket parts. Advance Adapters is known for quality conversions products and backs them with a warranty of up to one year so you know you’re getting the finest OEM and aftermarket 4WD components.

How did automatic transmissions go from compressed air and hydraulics to advanced modern electronics? Read about it in our overview of the fascinating history.

If you run into problems while installing a transmission adapter, our team can help. Use this guide to solve common issues so your truck or SUV runs great.

Get the right amount of power to the ground for the terrain you like to explore by using this gear ratio guide to know what you should install in your vehicle.

Advance Adapters sells a large assortment of transfer cases and accessories to go off-roading. But if you’re new to customizing an SUV or truck, you might be wondering what a transfer case is and why you need one for your vehicle. In this guide to transfer cases, we’re looking at how they work and the importance of installing one. Whether you prefer exploring trails, jumping dunes or crawling over rocks, we’ll help you get the best performance.

How a Transfer Case Works

As part of the vehicle’s drivetrain, a transfer case is a crucial component — not just in four-wheel-drive and all-wheel-drive rides, but just about every vehicle. It’s what transfers engine power and torque from the transmission to the driveshafts. In turn, the driveshafts carry that power to the axles. A transfer case also coordinates the front and rear axle rotation to keep it uniform and reduce the chances of wheel spin.

In some ways, transfer cases function much like differentials. The difference is that the transfer case sends power to the entire axle(s) while a differential sends power to two different wheels on the same axle. It is common for modern off-road vehicles to have both a transfer case and differentials to control torque.

Off-Road Transfer Cases

When choosing a transfer case, you’ll often have a choice between a chain-driven or gear-driven case. Most modern transfer cases are chain-driven because they are quieter and lighter. Although this is typically fine for everyday driving, many off-roaders still prefer the older gear-driven transfer case design. They can handle more torque and won’t stretch like chains sometimes do.

In addition to the drive design, the transfer case for an off-road vehicle can have many other configurations. Some four-wheel-drive transfer cases can lock the front and rear driveshafts to make sure the torque for both is equal. You may also have the option to purchase a multi-speed transfer case. These let you change to a lower gear ratio so you have extra torque when climbing mountains or pulling trailers.

A transfer case can have a married or divorced/independent housing. Married transfer cases are directly bolted to the transmission and are sometimes even in the same housing. Independent transfer cases are further down the driveline and have their own driveshaft to connect to the transmission. This arrangement is common for long-wheelbase vehicles; it also makes swapping engines and transmissions easier in a modified 4x4 vehicle without altering the 4WD setup.

Finally, if you have an on-the-fly transfer case that can switch between two-wheel and four-wheel drive, there is the choice of a manual shift or electronic shift selector.

Get the Best Transfer Case

If you want to upgrade or replace the transfer case on your vehicle, Advance Adapters has a solution. We sell heavy-duty Atlas transfer cases and Orion transfer cases along with parts, accessories and gearing options. Use our search options to find a transfer case that is a perfect match for your vehicle transmission and engine package.

When looking at a new engine, transmission or transfer case for an off-road ride, you may have been told that you also need a transmission adapter plate. But why, exactly, is it important to use this part? And why is it that some transmission adapters are so expensive? Knowing the answers to these and other questions will help you hit the right combination for power and torque when you’re going adventuring.

What Is a Transmission Adapter Plate?

An adapter plate is something that lets you join two parts or components that won’t fit together in their OEM form. This could be because they are different sizes and shapes or have different fittings. You’ll find them in almost any industry, including appliances, home electronics and medical equipment.

In the case of transmission adapter plates, they allow you to connect different transmissions, engines and transfer cases while operating as they were designed to from the get-go. If you want to use a certain combination that isn’t offered by the vehicle manufacturer, the right transmission plate lets you do so without having to completely overhaul the rest of the drivetrain.

Most off-road transmission adapters are flat metal plates with holes for the bolt attachments. Although simple at first glance, they must be incredibly strong to withstand the power and torque these components generate.

Types of Transmission Adapters

There are two basic custom transmission adapter designs. Engine to transmission adapters, or bellhousing adapters, are for when you replace either of these components with an aftermarket part that doesn’t fit. Likewise, transmission to transfer case adapters may be needed to mate these components when making upgrades. In both cases, the plate will align the transmission input shaft with the motor/transfer case shaft.

It’s important to also note that you may need more than just a transmission adapter plate when doing engine swaps. Other required parts to help everything connect properly can often include custom flex plates, flywheels, clutches and torque converters.

Can an Adapter Plate Combine Any Engine and Transmission?

Theoretically, you can match any engine to any transmission — or any transmission to any transfer case — using the right adapter. However, you also need to account for the power ratings of each. If you connect a 405-horsepower LS6 engine to the stock transmission in a Toyota Camry, then your transmission will be overtaxed and fall apart. An adapter plate may also not work if the gearbox shaft has a different number of splines as the engine.

Finally, even if an engine and transmission will work in theory, that doesn’t mean they can realistically be mated. Some combos are too large to fit together or fit underneath your vehicle without interfering with other parts — or they may just require too much effort to be worth your while. Do your research before starting to make sure you’re on the right track. The experts at Advance Adapters are happy to answer your questions Monday-Friday and help you find the correct transmission plates.

Coyote engines are rising in popularity among the DIY community for off-roaders and speed demons alike. The 5.0L powerplant is a factory option for several Ford vehicles such as the Mustang GT and F-150 — and it can be swapped into many other rides. Read on to learn more about what you should know before swapping a Coyote engine.

What Is a Coyote Engine?

The Coyote is a 5.0L version of the Ford Modular small block V8 engine. It was first released for the 2011 model year and is named after the Ford Motor Company’s first four-valve V8 race car, which A.J. Foyt drove to a pair of Indy 500 victories and 25 wins overall. Designed to compete directly with the 6.2L LS3 (GM) and 5.4L Hemi ESF (Chrysler), the Coyote has an 11:1 compression ratio and port fuel injection that produces 412-460 horsepower stock — yet it can run on 87-octane pump gas.

There are multiple reasons you might swap a Coyote engine into your vehicle rather than the popular LS motor. Since the Coyote has more moving parts, it can rev to and maintain higher RPMs, giving you more power and torque. Ford Modular 5.0L engines also can easily be modified to crank the horsepower even higher.

Coyote Engine Swap Tips

You should consider several factors before proceeding with this swap. The Coyote is much larger than the LS engine because it has dual overhead cams. Because of this, the Coyote will not fit in some smaller vehicles without modifications, and you’ll need to assess the available space. The extra moving parts also can make installations more challenging since more things need to fit together.

In addition, switching to a Coyote engine may require replacing or altering other parts, including:

•          Transmission — Many stock transmissions, especially on older and smaller vehicles, are not strong enough for the Coyote’s torque and need to be swapped for an aftermarket transmission.
•          Exhaust System — Coyote engines have tubular headers that may not fit your pipes. This will require adding adapters or getting K-members and crossmembers for proper exhaust routing.
•          Clutch and Flywheel — If you’re pairing a Coyote with a manual transmission, you should also replace the clutch and flywheel to make sure they’re rated for the power output.
•          Oil and Filter —The standard Coyote oil filter is on the driver’s side at roughly a 45-degree angle, and the rear sump is too low for some older chassis, both of which must be accounted for.
•          Cooling — For Coyote engine swaps, you need the coolant fill cap to be the highest point in the system. This can require rearranging the hoses, adding a new supply tank and replacing mechanical fans with electric fans.

Despite the work and cost involved, many people have found it worth swapping a Coyote engine for their off-road SUVs, hot rods and classic muscle cars. Advance Adapters offers an assortment of Coyote engine swap parts such as bellhousing kits to help with your engine project.

The transmission is a critical component in any on-road or off-road vehicle. The better your transmission works, the more of an engine’s power is translated to performance. Even if a powerplant has 800 horsepower, it won’t matter if those horses can’t reach the wheels.

But there are a lot of moving parts in a transmission, and they all need to work in harmony for your truck or SUV to go. Below, experts have explained what components are in a transmission for both manual and automatic designs. This will give you a better understanding of how a transmission works to help with upgrades and repairs.

Parts of a Manual Transmission

•          Flywheel — A metal disc made of extremely rigid metal. It’s what connects the engine to the clutch when the latter is engaged and also provides rotational mass.
•          Clutch — This connects the flywheel to the input shaft. When disengaged, the transmission rotates independently of the engine.
•          Clutch Pedal — A hydraulic part that is pressed to disengage the clutch.
•          Input Shaft — What drives the countershaft gears using power supplied by the engine.
•          Countershaft — Also called the layshaft, it contains an assortment of gears that connect to the output shaft gears and rotate constantly.
•          Gears — The parts that control the vehicle’s speed and torque. Bigger gears produce more torque while smaller gears have a higher top-end speed.
•          Output Shaft — The section that connects to the differential so power can be transferred to the wheels.
•          Selector Fork and Collars — Used to lock a gear in place so torque can be sent to the output shaft.
•          Dog Clutch — A special clutch permanently connected to the output shaft that engages it with the desired gear.
•          Synchronizers — A part with frictional plates that slow down gears so they’re running at the same speed as the output shaft and thus can be engaged.

Parts of an Automatic Transmission

•          Clutch — Like with a manual transmission, the clutch transfers power from the engine. However, the automatic transmission clutch pack has a drum with four discs that are squeezed together by a piston.
•          Gears — Modern automatic transmissions use a mechanical planetary gear design with a sun gear, planet gears and ring gear that interact to achieve the desired speed and torque.
•          Bands — Steel rings surrounding the clutch drum that tighten under pressure to stop the drum from turning so the vehicle can shift or stop.
•          Hydraulic System — Consists of a valve body, transmission fluid, oil pump, seals and gaskets to provide the needed pressure to control the clutch and bands. This is sometimes called the “brains of the transmission.”
•          Governor and Modulator — These decide when the gears will shift by monitoring the vehicle’s throttle position and speed.
•          Torque Converter — An “idling clutch” between the engine and gears that disengages the transmission when the vehicle is stopped so the engine doesn’t stall.

Advance Adapters has a large collection of off-road transmissions and components for DIYers. Shop for new transmissions, rebuilt transmissions, shifters, gears and other products to get the power you need.